Contact
Information: Telephone: 504-469-9986
Fax: 504-467-9356 Hours: 8 - 5 Mon.-Fri.
Towing Available . 24 Hour Answer Machine Message .
Early Bird Key Drop in Front Door E-Mail & Support: (NOT for estimate quote use. See
appropriate links atop of page): Click
Postal
Address:
2642 Delaware Ave., Kenner, La. 70062 Click For Map Directions
IMPORTANT NOTICE TO ALL VIEWERS: We advise that you check this page
periodically for any updates in the manual as we find improvements and
revisions. DO NOT CALL US FOR ANY SUPPORT
UNLESS YOU HAVE FIRST PURCHASED OUR PRODUCT and have implemented ALL
instructions outlined herein. Look-a-like products don't mean they are the same thing!
Be warned beforehand of "backyard" companies that will communicate with
you before and during your purchase but will avoid you like the plague
once a purchase is made and you need help with your installation or
complaints.
WHAT WILL MY MILEAGE GAIN BE?
We have that question frequently asked. The fact is the answer
to that question cannot properly be answered without stipulation. We
might add, if one does so— we will be polite here— he may be ignorant to
the real extenuating facts. First of all, supplemental hydrogen induced
into any engine will not produce effective results UNLESS the engine is
in VERY GOOD running condition. This means if your engine has ANY of the
following problems: piston rings and/or valve(s), engine miss, check
engine light on, oil burning consumption, unusual smoke emitting from
exhaust and/or breather system, or overheating, or has not been tuned
according to factory recommendations, DO NOT expect any fuel mileage
improvement. And don’t install anyone’s HHO system until it is rectified
by a professional that does mechanical work for a living and has ASE
(Automotive Service Excellence) certification credentials (see company
profile: http://www.labellasautorepair.com/index.htm#profile. Simply
stated, HHO is not a fix-all; but it is a proven fact that supplemental
hydrogen reduces engine emissions and increases fuel economy. Scientific
documented proof of this fact can be read here:
http://www.labellasautorepair.com/bettermileage_howto.htm. However,
supplemental hydrogen must be installed
properly and the engine and its computer, where applicable, must be
properly tuned for each application to accommodate the HHO induction.
Placing any kind of supplemental hydrogen generator system onto any
engine, without addressing the aforesaid, will yield little or no fuel
mileage improvement. And if anyone leads you to believe otherwise, you
will inevitably be rudely awakened. We at LaBella’s Auto Repair have
been in the mechanical automotive repair business for a living, with
proof certification credentials upon request, in a real building
structure, in a business zoned location, with an address on it and a
reachable phone number, in the national phonebook Yellow Pages, with
added proof location verification on the world-recognized Google Earth
(2641 Delaware Ave, Kenner, Louisiana 70062) not to mention the World
Wide Web— for over 40 years. We are not a backyard outfit in a
residential neighborhood in some off-the-wall, nameless-address location
or in a house-attached garage with a phone number or contact information
that is seldom reached successfully. We pay tax to the local Jefferson
Parish and Louisiana State and USA Federal Government and possess a real
federal tax ID number 720758366 for which all business are required to
have. Make no mistake about it, we are not saying you cannot do
successful business with other companies that may be different in there
operations. We are only saying be vigilant. Make sure before you make a
purchase that there's real support if you have questions and need help
and that the phone will be answered or a return call will be made when
you leave a message. Please do not call us
for any support if you have not made a purchase from us. We are experts in engine
diagnosis and the problems associated with such and have a data base of
factory repair manuals, wiring diagrams and test equipment to make
professional repairs and recommendations. Nonetheless, we can say
with reasonable confidence that those who have followed the aforesaid
have gotten satisfactory results from supplemental hydrogen installation
and development— no matter where they’ve made the purchase. The
information herein is provided to ALL viewers of our Web site with the
idea of improving both fuel mileage and environmental conditions.
Best wishes from LaBella’s Auto Repair and Company….
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Incorrectly installing or incorrectly using our Hydrogen Dry
Cell (or hydrogen generator) may result in serious damage to your
automobile or bodily injury. Read and follow the instructions and safety
precautions given here and in relevant places throughout this manual to
avoid these hazards. If you do not understand these instructions or do
not like working on vehicles, have your mechanic do the installation. It
should take 30 to 45 minutes to install this unit. Be sure to work
outside, no smoking; make sure the engine is not hot.
Be sure to wear goggles and rubber gloves and only use professional
tools; use common sense and general safety procedures used for
automotive installations and maintenance. If you're not sure, ASK! Yes,
HHO is combustible – AFTER IT ENTERS THE ENGINE – that's the whole
point. Your Hydro Fuel Dry Cell system does not store hydrogen when
installed properly, so there is no fire hazard due to hydrogen storage.
So, don't let people who have no understanding of the system intimidate
you or tell you about non-existent hazards. Hydrogen dry cell technology
cools down the engine and adds safety to any car.
The article “Shade Tree Safety” By Mike Bumbeck of autoMedia.com is a
recommended reading that will give more education for the do it yourself
mechanic.
WORD OF CAUTION: Avoid unnecessary fears and that includes listening to
self-appointed “experts”. Because the safety notes in this manual are
not intended to intimidate or stop you, only to add to your safety.
LET'S GET FAMILIAR WITH YOUR NEW DRY FUEL CELL
INSTALLATION:
The Dry Fuel Cell is the heart of the system that generates the HHO
gas and cools down the engine. You will need to find a place in the
engine compartment to mount your new Dry Fuel Cell. It
MUST BE MOUNTED UPRIGHT WITH THE CHANNEL
IRON MOUNTS LEVEL TO THE GROUND & The fitting openings facing NORTH to
the sky, and NOT side mounted or it will not work
properly and you will have unstable amp draw that could blow the fuse.
It should be mounted and secured in such a manner as to assure that it
cannot bounce around when the vehicle hits bumps etc. Your Dry Fuel Cell
comes with mounting holes which make your cell easy to install. Be sure
to install your new Dry Fuel Cell so that it can easily be accessed and
can be conveniently cleaned and serviced or inspected from time to time.
Your new Dry Fuel Cell comes with a Reservoir/Bubbler that looks similar
to the one above.
Make sure that your Reservoir/Bubbler is installed the same as you see
in the illustration. As you can see, the Reservoir/Bubbler needs to be higher than
your Dry Fuel Cell by 1 foot or more. Furthermore, make sure ALL hose
connections to the fittings are securely tightened with hose clamps and in
the rare event there happens to be a fitting leaking at any of the
threads, use Teflon tape or plumber's Goop to seal them according to the
products instruction's. This system works off of gravity
and will not work properly if it's not installed right. There are no
pumps involved with the circulation. If using twin
(double) Dry Fuel Cells, connect them only in parallel as seen in
illustration above, including the wiring; in series method should not be
used as it will not work properly. The other important device that needs to be installed
with the Dry Fuel Cells is the vaporizer condenser. Some call this a scrubber.
This device needs to be installed upright as seen in the illustration. In any case, this keeps the electrolyte from entering into the engine's
intake
which could cause damage by cylinder washout or trigger the check engine
light. It also keeps buildup from occurring in the HHO gas output line
to intake. A certain amount of electrolyte will normally enter the vaporizer,
much like a trap, but it will eventually be sucked back into
the bubbler tank after the engine is turned off. In some cases, however,
like if you overfill the bubbler tank, the vaporizer may become
overfilled filled with electrolyte, evidenced by the output line to the
intake becoming saturated with electrolyte. If this occurs, you will
have to immediately turn the engine off and drain the electrolyte from
the vaporizer. To do this you will have to wear eye and hand protection
and disconnect both the top and bottom hoses from the vaporizer and let
it drain out. If you install the Dry
Fuel Cell without a vaporizer, you are taking a chance of the engine sucking
electrolyte into the intake manifold, as there will be no "trap"
mechanism to catch any of the vapors that naturally form. This is particularly damaging to
diesel engines because it could cause engine lockup if a large amount
passes through. If you're
not sure of something, pick up the phone and give us a call.
Dry Fuel Cell Performance Notes:
Multiple Dry Fuel Cells can be used to increase HHO output capacity (LPM) if fuel mileage gain is
unsatisfactory. Of course this is with the understanding that you have
leaned out ALL of the computerized sensors (where applicable) as
outlined herein and followed ALL instructions. An example of this is, if
you have a single Dry Fuel Cell, you can add another one in parallel and
test the vehicle's fuel mileage. It is possible to use a total of three
fuel cells in parallel with the 30 amp pulse width modulator and the 3/8
inch ID hose. If you connect more than three fuel cells you will need to
connect them in parallel and in twos (pairs controlled by separate or
dual control pulse width modulators). When connecting the Dry Fuel Cells
in parallel, view them as one single Dry Fuel Cell. It is also possible
to run multiple Dry Fuel Cells of 4 or more with 3/8 ID hose if you run
them in pairs using the same configuration as seen in the dual (twin)
Dry Fuel Cell illustration. To accomplish this you will need to install
2 additional 3/8 x 1/4 NPT plastic fittings into the bottom of the
bubbler tank for each additional pairs of fuel cells to accommodate the
output and input hoses from the Dry Fuel Cells to the bubbler tank. Two
pairs of Dry Fuel Cells (totaling 4 Dry Fuel Cells) can use two 30 amp
separate or dual control pulse width modulators to control the two pairs
of Dry Fuel Cells. Keep in mind that a 30 amp pulse width modulator can
only handle under 30 amps and to run it higher than that will damage it.
The dual pulse width modulator or two separate pulse width modulators
will allow you to control the two pairs of Dry Fuel Cells at different
amp rating if you desire. If you want to add more Dry Fuel Cells, pair
them in twos and control them as aforementioned. This way you will not
have to use larger ID hoses and connections. Separate Dry Fuel Cells
will run cooler than one large Dry Fuel Cell in most cases. Nonetheless,
the Dry Fuel Cell will only perform at it best after the engine has
reached full running temperature with the factory recommended engine
thermostat (engines that run too cool or do not reach factory
recommended running temperature will not experience the best fuel
mileage gain). Experience has shown that short runs will yield less fuel
mileage gains whereby the longer the run the better the fuel mileage
gain because the Dry Fuel Cell must warm up to run at its full
performance capacity. Average warm up time is 10 minutes. Thus if you
drive short runs of that duration with a full cooling down of the engine
in between the runs, you will not see much fuel mileage gain. In
freezing temperatures it will be necessary to use antifreeze in the
bubbler tank reservoir. Such antifreeze used in windshield washer
reservoirs or mobile home water holding tanks will do the trick, but you
will have to increase the electrolyte mix to offset the additive. An amp
meter will aid in setting the correct electrolyte mix to amp draw ratio
as outlined in the electrolyte mix instructions. View Our YouTube HHO Dry Fuel Cell Demo Video:
IMPORTANT:
Diesel engine applications do not need to
install electronic computerized enhancer devices for fuel consumption
efficiency. Such devices are referred to as “efie’s” (electronic
fuel injection enhancers) which are applicable to gas burning fuel
injected vehicles- not diesel fuel burning engines.
Try to install your new Dry Fuel Cell as far away from the heat of your
engine. Locate the coolest available place in the engine area. We cannot
give you an exact number here for what is “too hot”, because there is a
combination of heating factors here. There is a situation called Thermal
Runaway, where an increase in ambient temperature combined with to high
of electrolyte mix can lead to a destructive result to the Dry Fuel
Cell. You can prevent this from happening by following instructions
below and utilizing what’s called a pulse width modulator (PWM) to keep
a stable current draw to Dry Fuel Cell.
IMPORTANT:
Your new Dry Fuel Cell device is operated by vacuum pressure
from your vehicle’s engine, plus a 12 Volt supply from your vehicle’s
electrical system. The device is designed to operate on 12 Volts. Refer
to the wiring diagram below. If you’re not sure, consult with your auto
mechanic, or contacting us for help.
Connecting The Power Source
Please refer to the illustration below for typical wiring configuration
for powering the Dry Fuel Cell. The diagram may vary if you use a pulse
width modulator (PWM) as described further in this installation
instructions below.
Useful resource: http//:www.AHDOL.com - the
Automotive Hobbyists Digital Online Library (AHDOL) provides FACTORY
WIRING DIAGRAMS upon request, for vehicles sold in North America between
1984 and 2007. Cost of complete vehicle diagrams per vehicle is $11.99
and is guaranteed to be delivered, via email, within 24 hours.
1. Identify a point in your vehicle’s electrical system which has 12
Volts (positive) present ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS IN THE RUNNING ignition
position for connecting to the Dry Fuel Cell positive electrical
connection terminal. Be sure to install an amp meter where you can
easily view the amp draw of the Dry Fuel Cell at all times, possibly
inside the vehicle. If you use a pulse width modulator (PWM), this can
aid in a stable amp draw to the Dry Fuel Cell because you can set the
amp draw at a specific setting which is covered further in this
installation.
2. Connect the black terminal of Dry Fuel Cell to a good ground source
near the Dry Fuel Cell. If using a pulse width modulator (PWM), see
illustration dealing with this type wiring schematic below.
How To Run Your HHO Gas Into Your Vehicle.
Now it's time to connect the HHO gas output line to your vehicle so you
go much further on a tank of gas. (Follow the diagram below).
How To Use Your Vacuum
VACUUM
Dry cell systems should be connected to the closest area to the throttle
throat (throttle body), not directly to intake manifold vacuum. The idea
is to suck the HHO gas into a place such as the carburetor throat or
fuel injection throttle body, where it can be automatically mixed with
the existing fuel/air mixture. Best connection spot on carburetors and
injection systems is at the closest location to the throttle body
throat. Connect the output hose on the air filter container right above
the carburetor throat and on fuel injection system, right above the
throttle body throat by means of a fitting. On rubber duct type hoses,
you can use a soldier gun and melt a hole in the rubber duct closest to
the throttle body and glue and screw the fitting into the hole with Goop
glue. On metal or hard plastic ducts, remove and drill hole, thread it,
install fitting, and then clean the metal shavings out of the duct
before installing it. On
diesel or gas engines with turbo charger(s), the HHO output hose goes into the
intake system BEFORE the turbo charger.On twin turbo
chargers you will have to use a 3/8 T fitting at the end of the HHO
output hose to run 2 additional hoses, one each, to each intake system
BEFORE each turbo charger. 2, 3/8 elbow fittings will be needed to tap
into the intake system to connect the output hoses to. WARNING: If you
put the HHO output hose into the intake AFTER the turbo charger(s), the
HHO system will become pressurized, damaging the HHO system. (See
typical HHO output hose connection diagram above) WARNING: DO NOT SHORTEN THE OUTPUT VACUUM LINE between
the engine intake and the Dry Cell. Keep the line (hose) at least 4 ft
long. This length must be kept to enhance safety and prevent damage to
the device.
HHO Gas Directional Nozzle
Another trick in optimizing the HHO gas induction is to direct the HHO
gas out line as close as possible into the throttle throat by
fabricating a directional nozzle so that it directs the HHO gas right
over the primary throat(s) be it a carbureted or fuel injected engine.
This also works on ALL non-turbo diesel and non-propane burning engines.
It is very important to direct the HHO gas into the throttle throat
without the directional nozzle obstructing any of the moving parts like
the choke flap or throttle plate. This can be fabricated with the use of
3/8 x ¼ NPT elbow fittings, a 3/8 vacuum T fitting and 3/8 OD clear
tubing, copper tubing, or plastic tubing assembled with Goop glue as
depicted in the illustration. Sanding of the mating areas may be needed
to get the fittings to tightly fit into one another before gluing.
FINAL SETUP
Filling the Reservoir/Bubbler with DISTILLED WATER & THE ELECTROLYTE:
ELECTROLYTE
(IMPORTANT NOTE) Our web site is available to anyone on the Internet.
There is some information that is only for those who paid for the
product. For example, we have our own formula for the electrolyte we use
in our dry cells. This formula runs cleaner and more efficient then most
things on the market today. This is according to our experience not
theory. Just give us a call 1 504 469 9986 or send us an e-mail:
labellasATcox.net (change AT to @) with your proof of purchase and we will give you
the password to this link, click:
http://www.labellasautorepair.com/forms/electrolyte_mix.pdf that contains the
electrolyte mix and information.
Try to use at least a 1 quart Reservoir/Bubbler. Be sure to make your
mix with that in mind. Our Dry Fuel Cell was made to run cooler,
therefore you might need more or less electrolyte to bring your cell up
to the operating standard we have set for this model: 10-15 amps but see
the link for the electrolyte mix aforementioned for full clarification.
Once you have your mixture ready, pour it into the top of the
Reservoir/Bubbler up to the water level line. (see sample diagram below)
This is just a sample of a 2 quart Reservoir/Bubbler. Be sure to leave
about 1/4 of the tank empty (75% full). What you decide to use is your
decision. While you are filling the unit, you should be able to see
water running down to your Dry Fuel Cell. If you don't see any water
going down the tube, this could mean you don't have the
Reservoir/Bubbler high enough above your Dry Cell. Always try to install
your Dry Cell at the lowest level on your vehicle at least 2 feet or
lower. The dry cell system should be bled of all air before operating or
unstable amp draw will occur and may cause main power fuse to blow. It
is not recommended to use your mouth to do any bleeding of lines but use
a vacuum pump gun ( like a Mityvac http://www.mityvac.com/ ) and collector
jar to perform the bleeding as indicated in image below at the outlet
line to bubbler tank connection. Low controlled air pressure (below 5
psi) may be utilized if a vacuum gun it not available at the bubbler
tank cap opening area with a wet rag around a regulated air nozzle while
blocking off all openings but the one at the Dry Fuel Cell outlet line
which would be placed in a container (jar or bucket) while utilizing
eye, face, and breathing protection.
TEST RUN:
1. Start by checking all your connections. Make sure your amp meter and
inline fuse have been installed.
2. Now start your vehicle. While it's running, watch for bubbling action
inside of your Reservoir/Bubbler. You should be able to see the gas
entering the Reservoir/Bubbler tank.
3. Now it's time to check how many amps your dry cell is pulling. This
cell was made to run at 10-12 amps without overheating at all. It will
produce over 1 liter of HHO gas per minute if you have everything hooked
up according to the instructions (that's all the hydrogen your vehicle
will need to see an improvement in fuel mileage).
4. If you have done everything right, within a short time, you will
notice that the engine starts to sound dramatically different. It will
sound smoother and quieter. Your RPM's may be unstable for a couple of
minutes. This is normal. The HHO is starting to change the combustion
cycle and cancels the pinging and the engine is now adjusting to the
changes. Your RPM's will normalize in a couple of minutes.
Congratulations! Your new Dry Fuel Cell is now producing Hydrogen Gas!
This is a professional dry cell and it is not made out of kitchen or
Home Depot utensils like with many other application designs. This is
for the expert experimenter; not the novice. What you do with this is up
to you. However...Keep in mind if you install this in a vehicle you will
still need something to fool the computer- leaning out the fuel mixture
for the HHO gas to take FULL effect. Yes, we have heard of generators
that require no computer lean outs, and these do work, but we believe
that the best fuel mileage results are accomplished with computer lean
out devices (efie’s or O2 sensor devices) most of the time (excluding
diesel applications which do not need “efie’s” as described earlier)
THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING
YOU MUST FOOL THE COMPUTER
Why do I have to fool the computer? Most modern-day fuel injected
vehicles use a computer and oxygen sensing devices to monitor and
maintain the correct oxygen/fuel ratio. One of the key sensing devices
is the oxygen sensor or called exhaust sensor. Fuel injected vehicles
have one or more oxygen sensors installed in them. The computer
extrapolates what the air/fuel ratio is, based on the amount of oxygen
in the exhaust, as reported by the oxygen sensor.
When a fuel saving device is installed, such as an oxy hydrogen
generator, the petroleum based fuel is burned more completely. One of
the results of this is that there is more oxygen (and less unburned
hydrocarbons) in the exhaust stream. This is a good thing, and is in
fact, what we are trying to achieve. However, the computer will perceive
this condition as a “too lean” air/fuel mix. In other words, what is now
a desirable condition in the exhaust, will be interpreted as “not enough
fuel”, and the computer will direct the fuel injectors to increase the
amount of fuel being pumped into the engine. The result is that the
oxygen sensor and computer prevents efficient combustion from occurring!
In other words, it cancels out most of the improvement we have just
made.
The Solution
Now Available: HHO Computer Chip for OBDII
(systems from Jan.1996)
With this new computer chip you will eliminate having to use any other
efie’s such as used on 02, map/maf , coolant and air temperature
sensors, etc. If in the event you choose not to use this chip you will
have to address the 02 sensor(s) before the catalytic converter as well
as other applicable sensors as outlined in the instructions if you
expect to have fuel mileage gain. If you already have these on your
vehicle and want to use the chip, you must remove all other efie’s off
the engine. We sell these for $120.00 includes free first class shipping
in the contiguous USA, out of USA contact us for pricing through the
contact us/support form and we will need the year, make, model and
engine size to program the chip specific to your vehicle. It can be
purchased here:
http://www.jerrylabella.com/labellas/fueledbywater.htm#Dry.
Here’s What the HHO Chip Does:
This chip is dynamic - which means it will consider oxygen levels in the
exhaust, along with engine speed and load, intake air temperature and
volume, and many other variables to determine the most efficient fuel
delivery rate and timing at up to 256 separate load points. When using
HHO as a fuel supplement, the chip will adjust fuel delivery and timing
to optimize efficiency. Recommended modifications: K&N or equivalent
non-restrictive intake, HHO (Oxyhydrogen) Supplement Generator for
maximum gains.
Compatible with factory equipped Turbo/Superchargers, diesel engines,
Flex-Fuel, & HHO supplement systems. It is NOT compatible with hybrid
engine options, propane, or natural-gas Simple to install easy to follow
instructions, connects to the back of the OBII data link connector with
only 4 wires. Not a cheap scam chip like many online
If You Decide NOT to Use The HHO Computer
Chip
Of foremost importance is the leaning of the oxygen sensor which “tells”
the computer what the oxygen content is by providing a voltage on its
signal wire between 0 and 1 volt. 450 millivolts (.45 volts) means that
the fuel/air mixture is correct. Higher values means the mix is rich
(has too much gas), and lower voltages means the mix is lean. By adding
voltage to the sensor’s output, we can compensate for the additional
oxygen in the exhaust and lean out the vehicle to get maximum MPG.
You must use device(s) that enhances the signal to the (ECU), such as an
EFIE (electronic fuel injector enhancer) which goes on the oxygen
sensor(s) BEFORE the catalytic converter(s).
OXYGEN SENSOR
EFIE INSTRUCTIONS
Most cars have oxygen sensors both before and after the
catalytic converter. The ones downstream from the converter do
not need to be treated. Their data is used to determine when the
converter has gone bad, but are not used in the air/fuel ratio
calculations. These devices are only needed for all upstream
oxygen sensors.
DIAGRAM OF A TYPICAL EFIE DEVICE
However, oxygen sensor
isolators can sometimes work instead of an EFIE.
If you expect the very best fuel mileage results (this may not be
necessary in all cases pending your mileage results), you may need to
address other fuel injection sensing devices other than the O2 sensors.
For example, if your vehicle has a MAP (manifold absolute pressure)
sensor, you need to install a MAP/MAF enhancer on it (see illustration
below). If the vehicle has no MAP sensor but has a MAF (mass airflow)
sensor, a MAP/MAF enhancer needs to be installed on it (see illustration
below). In some cases the vehicle may have both, in which case you only
address the MAP sensor.
Air Flow Meter Lean Out
View Our YouTube How To lean out An Air Flow Meter Video:
An Air Flow Meter (often seen on old Robert
Bosch fuel injection systems) should not be confused with its
more modern counterpart, the Mass Air Flow sensor as depicted
above (MAF) that virtually does the same thing- monitors the
incoming air intake volume. An air flow meter uses a
spring-loaded door that moves simultaneously with the depressing
of the throttle plate, allowing incoming air to enter the
intake. The air flow meter door is connected to a potentiometer
finger that changes the resistant value as it moves across a
printed resistor circuit board, causing the injectors to either
allow more or less fuel through correspondingly. Air flow meters
have an access cover on them that is silicone glued into
position but can be opened up after cutting the glue away.
Inside is a clock-like spring that can be tightened: leaning
fuel mixture; or, loosened: richening the fuel mixture. The
setting of this spring is done while the engine is in full
running temperature by tightening the spring to lean the engine
and then test drive to make sure the engine does not experienced
too much power lose. The gear dial that controls the spring
tension inside the flow meter usually has a locking mechanism on
it to keep the setting in place. You have to release the lock as
you move the gear dial that controls the spring tension. You
must be careful when unloading the gear dial lock retainer when
setting the spring tension because if you let it completely
release, it will unwind and go to full rich position and the
engine will kill out and not restart until you retighten the
tension to where the engine will run again.
CARBURETOR LEAN OUT
On engines with carburetor(s), you can lean out the fuel mixture
by screwing the air/fuel mixture screws in some after the engine
reaches running temperature and the choke flap is in wide-opened
position. It is not necessary to change the carburetor main
jet(s) to a smaller size, but if you are skilled enough, that is
another option. Further leaning can be accomplished by retard
the timing by 5 or more degrees and install Super Sonic Spark
Plugs:
http://www.supersonicspark.com/
COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CTS
Most all fuel injected
engine have a coolant temperature sensor CTS (see illustration &
instructions below) and some have a separate intake air temperature IAT
sensor (see instructions below). These sensors can be leaned out by
upping the temperature that the computer sees (not your dash gauge) by installing a resistor
in parallel to the sensor wires. Our testing has found that installing a
single pull single throw on/off switch eliminates cold start
problems that the installation of the resistor produces. Make no mistake
about it, if all possible computer components are
not addressed properly for leaning out (fooling the ECM computer) the
computer will eventually override single fixes and undo them after
several weeks of driving, rendering the fuel mileage increase to null.
Detailed instructions come with all purchased computer enhancers (and
OUR enhancers come with detailed instructions that can be downloaded
from this page) and
these adjustments involve trial and error fine tuning until you get it just right or the
check engine light might come on.
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR IAT
The IAT is less sensitive to cold start issues. You can add more
temp to this signal than you can to the CTS. Just keep in mind
that you are not only lowering your lean-out limits, you are
also retarding your ignition timing. If you put a timing light
on the engine as you adjust IAT values, you won't see the timing
change. The timing changes under load. Hotter air is more prone
to detonation. This is why the ECU retards the timing.
If you are tuning on the hottest day of the year, you may find
out just how high of a signal you can generate before setting
codes. Typically it is in the 240° F range. If you are tuning in
the middle of February, then you can offset the signal from your
base cold reading and things will be fine for now. Come June or
August, this setting may be high enough to trip codes. Allow for
this when tuning.
View Our YouTube How To Install An Amp Meter Video:
While the hydrogen generator will produce sufficient hydrogen
output, pending the correct electrolyte mix, and run within heat
tolerances, adding a PWM (pulse width modulator) will definitely
improve the temperature control and HHO production more
efficiently. Why? Because you can control the amperage draw
below the limit it is capable of drawing. For example, if the unit
is designed to run between 12-18 amps and the unit draws more
than that, adding a PWM you can tune it down and can keep the
amp draw within the specs, keeping a thermo runaway in check. It
also changes the voltage wave length which is conducive to
better HHO production.
NO WARRANTY is expressed or implied concerning the use of these devices
for any particular application. Use of these devices is at your own
risk. These devices are not intended for use in violation of State or
Federal law or regulations. Compliance with any State or Federal laws or
regulations is the responsibility of the buyer.
We get this question all the time. The answer is simple:
Your car or truck is being damaged right now by UNBURNED FUEL! Our
technology will help not only eliminate carbon deposits caused by
unburned gasoline - but will ACTIVELY clean out your engine every time
you drive. Over the first few weeks you will notice that the engine
becomes smoother and smoother. Then it will level off at a new level -
at which the engine continues to STEAM CLEAN itself.
Your new Dry Fuel Cell makes the engine quiet, and calm. The engine
stops knocking or "pinging". The water changes the combustion cycle into
a more even or "round" cycle. This happens IMMEDIATELY upon
installation, and from that moment on, your engine works in a new way.
The effect is not only less noise, it also has less vibration, resulting
in reduced strain on the transmission (thus smoother gear shifts),
cleaner pistons and valves, and generally better engine operation.
Water cools down the engine. For years, heavy trucks have been using
water injection systems that cost up to $15,000 to cool their engines.
Truck owners are very sensitive to maintenance expenses and they know
from years of experience that water reduces their breakdowns and overall
operating costs.
Our Dry Fuel Cell system will widen the torque range and make vehicles
accelerate faster. After acceleration, you don't have to press the gas
pedal as much to keep going. Trucks pull better uphill with HHO Gas.
Would you say that less strain on that Detroit diesel engine must result
in less wear and tear over the life of the engine?
EASY UNDO: Our technology does not change your vehicle's engine or
computer, so if you ever decide that you don't want this system, you can
unhook it in less than a minute and your engine is just as it was - only
cleaner!
CLEANING THE DRY FUEL CELL
You will need to do some maintenance on your Dry Fuel Cell from time to
time in order to help make it last. Keeping your Dry Fuel Cell clean is
an important factor and it's a very easy process. First you take loose
the outlet side of the cell and let it empty into a pan or bucket. Take
the cap off your reservoir/ bubbler and let the water drain out. Once
the water is drained out you will want to flush the unit.
(Important Note) Be sure that you drain the unit before flushing.
Depending on what type of electrolyte you’re using, adding the flush
mixture could cause a chemical reaction. Once the water has all drained
out of the unit, mix 1/4 cup of bleach to one gallon of water. Then pour
the mixture into the reservoir.
Let this flush through the system. This may take some time as your cell
is gravity feed. Once all the mixture stops running out of the outlet
tube, you only have one step left. Run another gallon of clean water
through the system and you're good to go. Reattach the hose and fill the
unit with the electrolyte mixture you're using and be sure to use
distilled water. You can refer to the illustration for the bleeding
procedure aforementioned for the hose that needs to be disconnected for
this cleaning.
We invite you to test this technology for yourself just like we've done,
and just like 1000's of vehicle owners and fleet managers from around
the world have done.
